Zanzibar

We arrived by fast Ferry from Dar Es Salaam. An experience in itself, our first attempt to get on the morning ferry was unsuccessful as tickets were sold out, but we were able to leave on the next ship, 3 hours later. The port was filled with both travelers and locals. The locals came with huge cargo bringing items from motorcycles to 50lb bags of rice from the nation’s capital to the island. It was a little chaotic getting in and waiting in line behind pushy people and all their stuff, but once we were in our section, VIP, we were in better shape. When we made it onto the ferry into the VIP section, the AC, the flat screen TV playing American movies, and practically the whole room to ourselves, was well worth the extra $5 spent on VIP than general seating.

Our Zanzibar time was split into two occasions: 1) Beaches in the north for 2.5 days/3 nights and 2) Zanzibar City, more popularly known as Stone Town, for 1.5 days/1 night

As our ferry was headed into the dock we were excited to see the old architecture backdrop against old-time dhows and bright green waters. We already knew this was to be a far better place than Lamu.

The 1 hour taxi drive to northern part of the island, Nungwi, confirmed this. We drove passed palm trees, lots of green vegetation, tropical fruit and spice trees. The island is a big producer of spices and can also be referred to as the “spice island” for cultivating and trading cinnamon, nutmeg, and black pepper. The green sea, the green land, Zanzibar felt truly like a magical tropical island with laid back natives of bicycles and motorbikes.

We got to our hotel which laid on top of this white sand. We dropped our stuff and began to wander around. Our hotel was simple and nothing lavish but it was perfect for us. The location was a one minute walk to the beach and then we were surrounded by all the fancy, more expensive hotels where travelers were spending much more money. We were told that Zanzibar is often a choice for Europeans to honeymoon and once in the midst of these pricey spots, you would see many couples reading, sun bathing, drinking and smooching on the beach. We blended in doing much of the same

We spent most of our time relaxing, walking up and down the beach – avoiding local “beach boys” and playing in the fluorescent water.

We were staying in the northern beached areas as it had claimed to have a booming night life, but we didn’t find that to be the case. We did arrive on a Saturday night in time for the island’s monthly full moon party, where we danced until 5am in the morning, but other than that night, the area was mellow at dark and we couldn’t manage to find any parties on Sunday and Monday nights – which made sense I guess. Instead the beach would often have a couple fires lit by local bars and we would sit on the beach, listen to waves and look at the stars…I say it again, magical!

On our last full day on the island we headed back down to Stone Town, close to the ferry dock, where had we started in Zanzibar. I was excited about Stone Town. People say you go there to get lost among old forts and winding streets -the food was supposed to be amazing as well. When we arrived at our place of stay, a mystery to me, I was FLOORED! It was our 3rd year dating anniversary and Aaron had surprised me by splurging on a gorgeous hotel, The Emerson Spice. LOOK IT UP! Again…Magical! I don’t know how else to describe it. The place was furnished with rich dark wood carvings, with so many details and gorgeous jewel colored drapes, it was like stepping into a old palace for kings and queens. And I felt like one! Our room was utterly romantic with a balcony outfitted with an outdoor shower and a swing overlooking the city. I was in LOVE.

 

After a walk   the town and sunset drinks at The African Hotel, we celebrated and toasted the night on top of the hotel’s rooftop. Looking down on the city, smelling rich spices and eating an amazing 5 course meal. It was incredible!

 

The next morning I was so sad to pack our bags and leave. We had breakfast on the roof and set out to explore. We would leave on the last ferry back to Dar Es Salaam and the following day, we would leave Africa. It was a reflective time for me.

Exploring was enchanting. The island is 99% Muslim. The Swahili/Arabic culture was prevalent and vibrant. We were entranced again by the Swahili doors that were everywhere and there was a cool energy. Kids and the elder on bicycles darted down the narrow streets and shops and street vendors would sit at steps of these tiny stores. We also spent time doing the more touristy things like visiting the old fort, walking the along the port and the historic slave site, where it was explained that over 50,000 slaves were traded each year. We ended our time in Zanzibar by eating at a fantastic hole in the wall, which served up amazing fruit juices and fresh salads.

 

Zanzibar is incredibly unique with tons of character and being there you feel a part of a different time in a different world. It was a huge highlight of our time in Africa and it was perfect place to end our African journeys.

See Aaron’s review of Emerson Spice on Trip Adviser – LOVE the hotel owner’s response.