Jami & Aaron's Travels

Siem Reap: Partying with the locals on New Years Eve

Aaron — Mon, 28 Apr 2014 04:00:48 +0000

Throughout our trip, we usually haven’t had reservations more than a few days in advance, and often not even for that night. Instead, we’ve known our general outline of where we want to go, and just played it by ear how we were going to get there. One of the exceptions was Siem Reap. Because on this trip we’ve traveled to locations that were both fun and completely dead, we were both adamant about making sure we were in a “fun” town for New Years Eve. About a month ahead of time we did some research and found that Siem Reap was consistently named one of the best spots for backpacker NYE; once again, the Internet was right. We rejiggered our schedule a bit, made sure we would be there on December 31st, and had an absolute blast drinking and getting wet as the clock struck midnight.

On a tuk tuk through the Siem Reap countryside

New Years Eve in Siem Reap

One of the best and most unique aspects of the party was how involved the local Cambodians were. On our trip we’ve celebrated with just locals, and we’ve had amazing nights with other backpackers, but often the two are mutually exclusive. But Siem Reap is a big tourist destination for Cambodians as well, known for being a good NYE spot, and as a result there were nearly equal mixes Cambodians and foreign backpackers on the streets.

Getting There

But first, we had to get there. While we were sold a single ticket from the Four Thousand Islands to Siem Reap, the trip was anything but simple. First we had the (now normal) transfer of boats, to vans, to big buses as we made our way out of the islands. The Cambodian border was straightforward (and once again our passports and visas were stamped without even looking at us, still a strange practice for me) but we fell victim to a few small scams.

The Cambodia / Laos border.

It was quickly evident who on our bus had been through the crossing before – first, they didn’t let the bus company take their passports to get them stamped en masse. The bus company claimed they did it quicker for less cost – wrong on both counts. Second, they walked right by the Cambodian “health inspector” at the border. The inspector had a digital thermometer, and for US$1 would take each person’s temperature and issue them a certificate saying they were healthy. He claimed it was necessary to enter the country, and that the health entry certificate was needed to use doctors within the country. Wrong on both counts. By simply walking past the inspector the savvy travelers saved themselves the money and didn’t suffer any consequences. We did end up seeing a doctor in Cambodia, and she never asked for the certificate.

Jami and her health certificate

Once past the border, we were in for a full day of bus-riding. The roads in Cambodia leave a lot to be desired, and nearly all of them lead to Phnom Penh. This meant that instead of being able to drive straight to Siem Reap we had to go about 4-5 hours out of our way towards Phnom Penh before we could start heading towards Siem Reap. But we made it, late at night, and after some heavy negotiations and pressure found a tuk-tuk that took us to several cheap hotels before we found one that was open (we arrived one day before our reservation was supposed to start, so once again we were in a town at night with no place to sleep).

The Town

Siem Reap is the second largest city in Cambodia, but much of the activity is located within a small central old town, and so it feels smaller and more walkable than one might assume. In the “Old Market” area are a number of markets selling everything from tourist trinkets, to food, to local goods. With stall after stall of goods, its a shoppers dream. There are also numerous alleyways of slightly more pricey restaurants, most specializing in Cambodian barbecue.

Alleyways in Old Market

The town was also decked out with lights, creating a beautiful effect when walking through at night.

The lights of Siem Reap (it looks better than it comes out in the picture!)

Jami and I in front of a lit bridge

Around Town

The big draw of Siem Reap is, of course, the temples of Angkor. However there are a number of other sights around the town. We had time to see two of them. The first was the Cambodian Landmine Museum, a small museum set up by Aki Ra, a former Khmer Rouge solider. Cambodia has long suffered the results of decades of civil war, and one of the most persistent dangers is the landmine.

Cambodian Landmine Musem, with a large supply of disarmed landmines.

Planted by nearly all sides of various battles in order to stop opposing troop movements, a huge number of landmines remain hidden in Cambodian soil. Every year Cambodians, mainly children and poor farmers, lose their lives as a result of these mines. Aki Ra was a former child solider who became disillusioned with the Khmer Rouge and began using his expertise in *laying* mines to start finding and disarming them. Ra kept these disarmed mines in his house, and soon tourists started arriving, having heard stories of the crazy Cambodian guy with stacks of landmines in his house. The crowds forced Ra to move the museum into its own building, and it’s now its own organization, raising money to clear villages of landmines and to support victims of landmines and their families.

The second was the Banteay Srey Butterfly Center, a small but wonderful butterfly nursery where butterflies are raised and bred. We got to see a number of different types of butterflies, as well as their larva breeding closet. Very cool, and a needed break after hearing about the horrors of the Khmer Rouge at the Landmine Museum.

Butterfly Center

Jami and her friend.

A pretty one.

A new friend

The pupa box

Lots of soon-to-be butterflies

Another pretty one.

New Years Eve

The most famous street in town is “Pub Street” – a short stretch in the center of Old Market filled with bar after bar. The street is normally fun and filled with backpackers, drinking SE Asia’s standard of cheap beer and buckets.

Pub Street

On New Year’s Eve it was packed. Wall-to-wall people, bars blasting music and moving their alcohol out into the street, and crowds of locals and travelers all mingling in the middle.

New Years crowds

There were locals partying with tourists, which created a fun atmosphere. A local TV station even interviewed us to ask our opinion of Siem Reap on NYE. There was a lot lost in the translation.

Being interviewed.

Aside from lots of crowds and dancing, the biggest theme of the night was water. We knew that the “Asian New Years” (Songkran) in summer was traditionally celebrated with water fights, but we weren’t expecting it that night. The street was tightly packed with people dancing, and as they jumped up and down they would swing bottled water all over the crowd. Once we got over the surprise of being showered with water, it was amazing, and we happily joined in. With our two British friends we partied all night, counted down the new year with the rest of the crowd, and danced until they closed the street.

Lots of water being thrown around.

Happy New Years!

4k islands: Been there, Don Det

Jami — Sun, 20 Apr 2014 21:44:51 +0000

Merry Christmas! Well, I know it’s time for Passover/Easter, but I guess we’re (alright Aaron, I’M) a bit behind. Since coming back here there has been a lot of to-dos and no time for settling, which is okay with us, as I don’t think we’re comfortable doing so.

SO…

What are the Four Thousand Islands?

They are not your typical vision of an island. No real sandy beaches and turquoise water. The Four Thousand islands, known as Si Phan Don, are often tiny and sometimes large sand banks inside the Mekong River, established as “islands.” The more popular bigger islands to stay, are Don Khong, Don Det and Don Kon. Just 5 or so years ago these islands were roads less traveled, not having electricity or any sort of plumbing. But times have changed and the popular islands are now a well sought after route for backpackers. However, while electricity and for the most part spotty wi-fi can be found, the islands still feel like you are worlds away from the modern world. There still are no ATMs on the islands, so be sure you bring enough KIP with you.

A typical bungalow restaurant hanging off into the Mekong

Typical boats to island hop and fish

A local man, makes his fishing net. Here locals are quite self-sufficient and not reliant on tourism.

Frogs, local cuisine, frying in the sun

Unbeatable sunsets

Hot showers, a luxury and hard to come by on this island.

In traditional SE Asia fashion, we took many modes of transport to get to the 4K Islands. First, a mini van that got us to a river, in which we took a small boat, to land where we waited around for about an hour in the early morning on the side of the road waiting for another bus to pick us up. This bus again, the size of a mini bus got us close, but not before we had a couple of stops. At our stop for Don Det, Nakasang Town, we got off, walked about half a mile and then to another boat that would take us by small boat to Don Det. While the trip out didn’t seem that efficient the cost of all modes of transport cost Aaron and I about $12 each – and that’s why we LOVE Laos!

The boat made its stop on the sandy part of the island, on the “sunrise” side and our backpacks were thrown out of the boat and onto the sand. We had no reservations, be it that here there are no hostels, just tiny one room bungalows. We were a little nervous about not having ressys, being that it was Christmas, but we walked to the other side of the island, the “sunset” side, and found exactly what we were looking for, perfectly named Paradise. It was modest wooden bungalow, overlooking the river, with two hammocks ready for us to relax. Our place also had a pretty buzzing main restaurant area where people would gather with a book, a guitar, a joint, a beer, some coffee and hang out for an hour or two or all day. Don Det is often described as a backpacker mecca and just by looking around the small boat of mostly young 20-somethings with dreads and tattoos, and a pile of backpacks on the front, we realized the description is right.

Our place, young and fun, filled with people coming to relax.

Our bungalow, the first one.

You see the 4k islands are a bit like Pai in Thailand, the objective here is to hang out. Life moves especially slow here on this island of no cars, tuk tuks, horses, and just a handful of motorbikes. The “roads” are simply dirt path ways you walk. The island shuts down at dark and dinner takes an hour or two to be served. And you know, that’s the way they (and all the resident backpackers) like it.

One of the more modern paths we crossed, me in the far distance on my bike

It’s perfectly normal to spend all your time here in a hammock or on a deck drinking in the views atop the Mekong accompanied with a Beer Lao. You also sip on coconuts and eat banana pancakes with Lao coffee. Some people fall so much down this spiraling hole of “chill” that they forget how long they’ve been here, or what day of the week it is. A planned couple of days in Don Det can easily result in a month of “where did the time go.” Heck some people even decide not to leave at all, hence a huge expat community.

4K island living

So taking it easy is what we did. We simply hung out at our bungalow our first day, enjoying the Christmas sunset and drinking some beer Lao. We thought people would be celebrating Christmas in “town,” a short street with a handful of bars and places to eat, but the street was quiet. Even the famous reggae bar was empty and dark. So we decided to head back. Turns out Europeans celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve, so any celebration we missed the night before.

Aaron drinking Beer Lao

Relaxing with my Kindle, admiring the sunset

The next day, being a little restless from no nightlife and a little anxious to get out of our hammocks and start exploring Don Det and its nearby sister island, we rented some janky bikes, the best of the lot for about $1 for the day and biked around. We biked to the nearby sister island, even quieter than Don Det, Don Khon. As we biked we witnessed local kids entertaining themselves with various household items, mostly trash. Along the river bank on the bridge, kids used cardboard and water bottles as seats to ride down the side of the concrete bridge, an old railway bridge. We passed cows and roped up pigs and also locals on their bikes coming home from school. Once on the other side of the bridge, we followed signed to “the beach” and stopped at various waterfalls. We arrived at the beach a little late so most sun bathers were heading home, but it was nice to have the beach to ourselves.

Biking through the main street on the sunset side

Typical dirt path, along the Mekong, mostly perfect for biking…watch out for those rocks and dips

Kids coming home from school, often doubling or tripling up on a bike

Kids at play: sliding down the bridge

They used cardboard and soda/water bottles

Heading to the beach

Stopping at waterfalls

Fishing nets attached to rocks

At our arrival, not your typical beach

Before sunset hit, we headed back home, stopping to witness locals play soccer in a crop field and crossing the bridge just as the sunset hit. The sky and the water were magenta mixed with orange and lilac. The sunsets here are really unreal as the water takes on the color of the sky. A sort of glow is everywhere. On the bridge we ran into our friend that we did the Laos Trek with, you know the one with the leeches.

Kids playing soccer

A unplanned meeting on the bridge at sunset

Breathtaking

The following day we moved on to one of my favorite unique places of stay throughout the trip, which is saying a lot considering some of the amazing places we stayed in throughout Europe, Nepal, India and Thailand…a tepee! We made our way to The Last Resort, owned by an expat, Brit who was once a successful finance professional, who dropped it all, sold his stuff and claimed a small piece of land on a tiny island on the bottom of Laos. His vision was to create a fun, communal feel, of a place, it was magic. And communal it was, you would wake up with the other tipee mates as you drank coffee and at night we would order family style, in our case Indian food, and watched movies that shown via projector, an open air cinema if you will. We watched classics like Home Alone as we laid in hammocks and on cushions. Speaking of expats, the island was filled with them. It seemed like every restaurant and bar, be it reggae or Mexican was owned by a Kiwi, a Brit, or Aussie. They all knew each other and likely had the same idea to escape whatever their regular life was at “home” and create a new one on this chill island. It was also so that they usually escaped their home in Laos during the summer months, rainy season, so I’m sure the island is abandoned of most food and entertainment. The Last Resort cost us 50,000 KIP a night, about $6!

Our very own tepee!

We spent the next day on a deck overlooking the Mekong, drinking smoothies and coconuts, eating and blogging. In the evening we went on a “fishing” tour which costs us about $2 each. Turns out it was a man with a boat and one fishing rod for the six of us. It was a total joke, but who cares, the “guide” was very nice, it was cheap. However, no fish were caught.

Once again chilling along the river

Gone fishing…sort of.

Aaron working the line

Aaron, after his turn at fishing

Taking my turn

Cambodia, just to our right

On our final full day in 4K islands, we signed up for an ALL DAY Kayak trip. We got up extremely early and headed into town. We kayaked and hiked all day, it was a bit strenuous but fun to feel so connected to the Mekong. We paddled out amongst the Irrawaddy Dolphins that were native to that part of the river. We only saw a few pop up in the hour or so we stayed out there but it was cool knowing we were at the place to find these animals almost exclusively. We then relaxed and took lunch at a local spot that catered to this company. On our picnic benches we were surrounded by the local pets: dogs, chickens, cats and pigs, who seemed to know that tourists were likely to give them any leftovers. After lunch we were bused to the huge waterfalls, Khone Pha Pheng, the largest in southeast Asia and they are the main reason that the Mekong is not fully navigable into China. We took our pictures, climbed out on some rocks to get a better view and were back in the van to head to our kayaks. As we arrived local, and some naked, kids were playing on the kayaks. As sunset hit, we paddled back to Don Det, tired from the long day. As we got back we had some dinner and headed to bed early.

Kayaking with our group

Happy to have such a strong partner

Among the dolphins

At the falls

Pretty massive

Kids at our kayaks

Heading home at sunset, pretty tired.

The next day, early in the morning, before most the island was up, we headed back to where it all started the sandy beach on the “sunset side,” where we would again take a boat, to a bus to a bus, with a boarding crossing in Cambodia! I can’t say enough about how much I loved Laos. The people, the seclusion and relaxation, the cost of things! While tourism is ramping up, the place still seems unchartered and feels incredibly authentic. I would and will go back in heartbeat.

At sunrise, leaving the island, on our way to Cambodia!

Champasak & Wat Phu

Aaron — Thu, 06 Mar 2014 10:03:55 +0000

We spent one night in Champasak on our way in between Pakse and the Four Thousand Islands. We were there for one thing: Wat Phu, an ancient Khmer temple.

Wat Phou

The temple is supposedly the most impressive religious ruin in Laos, and while it can’t compare to the temples at Angkor, it was an impressive sight to see. The temple is mostly ruins, although you could tell that they were hard at work trying to rebuild what they could.

Walking an ancient road towards the temple

The most impressive aspect of the ruins was actually the grounds the temple was built on. At the foot of a mountain that reminded the ancients of a natural linga (a pillar used for worshiping the god Shiva), cobblestone paths rise up to platforms surrounded by beautiful trees and with beautiful views of the valley and river below.

Beautiful paths

Look out over the valley

Walking around the grounds

We had fun walking around the grounds and seeing the beautiful stonework typical of Khmer temples.

Hanging out in a doorway

The temple is still used by the locals.

Champasak itself was small, with one street having nearly every guesthouse and restaurant. Our place was simple, but nice enough. The guesthouses were all used to travelers passing through between Pakse and the Four Thousand Islands, and we had no trouble arranging transport. Wat Phu is also easily done as a day trip from Pakse.

Main Street, Champasak

We were in Champasak for Christmas Eve, and had a fun night drinking with other travelers at our guesthouse (as there was literally nothing else to do in town). It was fascinating hearing about each country’s different traditions, from Australia to Denmark; Germany to Argentina. The only hiccup in the night was the older German couple who were (unfortunately for them) sleeping in the room next door. After many blowups and angry shouting between the couple and the German backpacker who was partying with us, everything was settled – until we woke up the next morning and saw the couple in our van for the long drive to the Four Thousand Islands. Oops.

Bolaven Plateau: Bikes, Coffee, Bungalows and Waterfall Adventures on the Road

Jami — Wed, 05 Mar 2014 09:19:46 +0000

We almost missed our overnight bus from Vientiane to Pakse. We were supposed to be picked at our hotel but we waited and waited and soon got worried. While traveling we found that there was a blurred line of being pushy and “nervous Americans” vs. going with the flow and completely depending on things to work out. Well it got to be time to push and they told us very sedately, they had forgotten to pick us up and we had missed the bus and that we would have to go the following day. I was enraged. I told them that someone better come and pick us up and that we still had a little bit of time so they better hold that bus. Our tuk tuk came and we drove so fast that I had to grip the back with both hands but we arrived and got on our bus. Of course then, what do you know, we found out our bus was broken and then we had to switch buses. This new sleeper bus was much worse than the last bus and though it still had flat beds, for us to share, but the compartments were teeny tiny and there would be no bathroom. Our ride would be about 12-13 hours.

Our bed for the night: yes, the both of us! (to Aaron’s Left)

We arrived in Pakse early in the morning and took a tuk tuk to the main street. There we found a hotel to put our stuff down and start talking plans. Yeah, we still needed to figure out what we wanted to do. I wanted to motorbike. However, I would not be driving so now I needed to convince and pump up Aaron that that was the way to go.

Aaron continued to throw out ideas of tours or renting a car but that was not how you were supposed to do the plateau. (He was very nervous as it is 3-4 days on the road, often empty, with very few English speakers, and yeah, there was that fall we had in Goa in India). But I believed in us and I tried to ease Aaron’s mind by talking to guy our age from DC I met in the lobby who had just done the ride with his girlfriend. We picked up a map and asked him a bunch of questions. He also pointed us to a friendly and knowledgeable rental shop a few doors down, Miss Noy’s where really is the best and only place to rent your bike. For those of you who plan on doing this Miss Noy is a 4-foot something lady with a 6’5 German boyfriend. They are quite the tag team when it comes to questions and help.

Finally, Aaron was convinced and so we left our big bags at Miss Noy’s, packed up Aaron’s daypack with our clothes for the next 4 days (each), our overnight stuff and any emergency first aid we thought was relevant, picked our helmets and our bike about $8/day. At around 11am we were ready to go!

Our map

DAY 1: Pakse -> Tad Lo

Pakse city roads are pretty scary so our easy crusin didn’t happen immediately. When getting out on the road, other motorbikers, big trucks, tuk tuks, were coming at us in all directions. The roads were pretty spotty and our map was not the best. We started off a bit slow and terrified and took a big breath after just a few kilometers we stopped off for gas. We knew the worst of it was almost behind us but we were still nervous. After a 10 or so kilometers however we were on the long stretch that is the Bolavan Plateau. I was surprised at the quality of the road. It was actually quite descent with fairly nice paved roads and little road traffic despite the cows, dogs, goats and the occasional random chicken family that decided to be dare devils and cross the road. Driving along it was neat feeling the wind against me and hearing kids shout out, “SABAIDEEEEEE” (Hello) as we road passed them and shouted back the same. They were so cute waving to us excitedly on the side of the road. The one thing I didn’t anticipate was how much my butt and back would hurt after only I few hours riding on the bike. Wow, it sucks to have a boney ass. 6-8 hours everyday on that bike with the backpack on, we had to take breaks, lucky for me they were usually coffee breaks, since the plateau is mostly filled with coffee plantations.

A calm Pakse Road

Kids on the side of the road, trying to get their chickens to fight.

The various roads along our way: gravel, paved and dirt and a dose of road traffic

You see the Bolavan Plateau is a combination of jungle and plantation packed with coffee plantations and waterfalls and homestays at on each along the way.

About an hour in we stopped on the side road for food. We ate soup at a side stand where a woman, who didn’t speak English, invited us under her bamboo hut. It was just her, her two kids and a baby that was swinging from a basket within a hung mosquito net. Chickens and pigs were at our feet as we ate up our $0.50 bowl of soup and followed it up by big donuts holes, a Lao specialty.

Off we went and to our next stop the Katu Textile Village, an ethnic village and coffee plantation, where the tight knit village work the plantation of coffee and peanuts, as well as create beautiful textiles. It also has a homestay for guests. The owner Mr. Vieng and his wife were amazing. They roasted us fresh beans and made us some FRESH GROUND COFFEE. I took it iced.

The arabica trees

Yum!

After drinking our coffee, eating some peanuts and bananas, meeting a couple locals: twin two-year old girls, Mr. Vieng gave us a tour of the plantation. Taught us about the varieties of different coffee trees: Arabica vs. Rustica, organic vs conventional, etc. We also got a tour of the village. We were extremely lucky, as the following day a wedding, in which the whole village is invited and contributes to, was to happen. We met the men, women and children in total prep cooking, chopping vegetables, and prepping the “live food.” This was going to be some party. What was interesting was that we learned that the bride to be was 14 and the groom to be was 20.

Teaching us about coffee. It is a hard job.

And now up in a tree.

The beans

Walking through the village, a woman with her baby playing in the peanuts

A Katu woman weaving

A village house, beans drying in the sun

The wedding food prep

Chicken meat inside the bamboo over the fire

A Katu woman, “enjoying herself”

More beans drying

And Chilis

Animals in the village

Girls looking on as we walk through the village

We got back on our bike and headed to our final stop before sun sets: Tad Lo. We biked right passed it and had to do a Uturn, the signs were an issue along the route, but eventually we found it, just as the sun was starting to fade – phew! We didn’t know what to expect, but at arrival we were impressed with the single street with a half a dozen guesthouses and homestays. We settled on Fandee, with it’s wood and bamboo bungalows in a row and it’s bocce pit a popular hot spot with the local kids. It was also a whopping $6.50 bucks a night, since we opted for the shared bathroom.

Our companion: The Honda Wave 210cc

Fandee Guesthouse

The bocce court

The place was owned by an expat French couple and every night they served up a family style feast, shared by the rest of the guests. At 25,000 KIP, roughly $3 we were served Laos salad, unlimited bowls of sticky rice, a wonderful chicken curry, veggies and fruits for dessert. Our table mates also happened to be all French and were into their 5 or 6^th bottle of wine, before we even got to the table. Apparently, some of them had arrived a few days before thinking they were to stay the night and they hadn’t been able to leave. After playing with the neighborhood kids and the house cat, we went to bed. The night was freezing!

One note: the plateau elevation is at 1200m and can be 10-20 degrees cooler than Pakse. Even with the sun shining I often had a jacket on and we had to layer up at night and pray our place of stay had some nice blankets.

DAY 2: Tad Lo -> Tad Faek

In the morning, I woke up early and crossed the street to get some fresh roasted coffee. We had decided to take the morning easy, so we laid around in the sunshine to thaw our – Aaron got in a hammock, I laid on the deck. Then we had some breakfast: banana pancakes with fresh honey, straight from a honey cone, and walked around the village and checked out the awesome waterfall.

Just across the street

Aaron taking in the sun (check out his friend below)

More coffee and breakfast

The path through the village

Tad Lo

Back on our bike we drove right through the village of locals and vibrant culture on our way out of Tad Lo. Our first stop, a ways away, was Sinouk Garden Resort. Randomly, we had already tasted Sinouk coffee in Vientiane in their coffee shop across the street from our hotel. The plantation/resort was really chic.

An actual menu

Understanding their process

We got back on the bike and stopped at Sekong, on what is labeled as a “big city/village” to give our butts a rest. We had some coconut water and met a friend. We got back on knowing that we needed to find our final stop, Tad Faek or come back, as there was nothing for miles thereafter and it was going to get dark soon.

She really did like us

Again, a little hard to find, with a long stretch of questionable road to get to the guesthouse we were there. We dropped off our stuff and headed down to the bottom of the waterfall. We chilled, had a Beer Lao and watched the sunset. The guesthouse bungalows sat right over the waterfalls. The guesthouses cost us about $5 and were nothing fancy but it was amazing falling asleep to the rushing falls. The next day was going to be rough.

Looking out to OUR waterfalls

Hanging out by the falls

Our view from our room

DAY 3: Tad Faek -> Tad E-Tu

The big day of craziness. This was the stretch, around 175kms of road work and construction. And so it went…the mud roads, the loose gravel roads and the mud pits. At times we were walking the bike. I often got off so that Aaron could have better balance. Big boulders and construction vehicles were road blocks, but we did catch another waterfall, Tad Katamtok, along the way in the midst of the construction.

Ready for Day 3

Oh mud puddles, you sucked

I’m walking this one

Getting muddy

Even locals are having problems

Some dirt biking

Tad Katamtok at a distance

The stops were really special. The next stop was Tad Alang where we ordered some coffee and eggs for breakfast. There was some confusion as I ordered and it came out the food was placed on a communal table where a bunch of guys started eating it. I looked at Aaron and said, “eat up,” cause they are going to eat all our food. Half way through we figured out WE we eating THEIR food. And by eating it, I mean totally stealing it. The guys were working on the land and took off before we could share OUR food when it came out. Embarrassing! Well we headed down to the waterfall, which was one of my favorites. The surrounding environment was bright green. As we hiked down to the bottom, we had to get soaked to get a good view. It was so fun. Also fun, was the double rainbow.

Out of the mud, ready to cruise

Eating their food, sorry!

Check out the double rainbow

Can you spot me?

Getting soaked

Back on the bike

Open roads

We also stopped at a few more waterfalls…

Our last stop was the was at the brand new Jhai Coffee House. Jhai coffee house is the world’s first philanthropic coffee roaster & cafe located at the source. The coffee house and various projects are currently run by an American couple, Tyson and Janelle. Tyson the ever lover of coffee creation, is coinsidently from Seattle. The profits of the coffee sales, which through their help is being sold overseas in fancy coffee shops on the west coast, goes to building clean water wells and sanitary education of villages, where many are get sick and even die from bacterial diseases in food and water prep for cooking, etc. We had a lot of time hanging out and talking coffee and all things Pacific North West.

Please check them out: https://www.facebook.com/JhaiCoffeeHouse

Hanging out, taking a break

We splurged that night and stayed at a really nice place, E-Tu Waterfall Resort. Way more than our $6-8 per night but it was worth it when I got into that hot shower.

Our room, a nice change from the bamboo bungalows

DAY 4: Tad E-Tou -> Pakse

We woke up and visited the waterfall we slept above. We got on our bike and back tracked a couple kilometers to visit our last two waterfalls: Tad Yuang and Tad Fane.

E-tu falls

Tad Yuang was a bit more commercial than we were used to. We had a real wooden staircase to walk down and view points along the way. While it was commercial it was fairly and we had all the view points all to ourselves.

On top

Tad Yuang – Jami

Tad Yuang – Aaron

And from above

And walking back up

At Tad Fane, we looked down from above into what seemed to be a hole in the earth and where two streams took deep falls. It was like standing above the rim of a crater. We couldn’t even see the bottom. It was an amazing finale to our trip.

A hole to what looks like the bottom of the earth

We got back on our bike. Had our final coffee cup at a nearby coffee plantation shop and headed back to Pakse.

Cheers

Time to go back to the “city”

The Bolaven Plateau was one of my favorite things we did in Laos and the trip itself. Aaron and I, the road, and endless nature and adventures, the people and the villages, the bungalows, the plantations and the waterfalls. At the end, even Aaron agreed, it was a great idea.

Vientiane

Aaron — Sat, 22 Feb 2014 03:21:33 +0000

While we were looking forward to a few days in Vientiane after a great time in Luang Prabang, we were left disappointed. Somehow the French colonial charm didn’t make its way to Laos’ capital. Instead, the city streets looked just like any other city’s streets; the temples that line main streets look ordinary and worn down. Even the coffee shops felt like a big city chain as opposed to the charming, welcoming environment we found in Luang Prabang.

Streets of Vientiane

But, we still had to be in Vientiane, as we were headed to Southern Laos, and all roads in Laos run through Vientiane. We strolled the riverfront, which has a large market and is apparently the go to places for young couples to gather at sunset.

The riverfront at sunset

The main market at the riverfront – not a lot of tourist goods.

We also saw the main sights of Vientiane, but they were underwhelming. Our first stop was Pha That Luang, a gold stupa that is the national symbol of Laos and is on every coin in the country. But it’s simply a gold-painted stupa, located in the middle of a huge open plaza, paved with stones but filled with parked cars. Other temples dot the plaza as well.

Pha That Luang

Another temple around the plaza

Statues around a bodhi tree

At least the temples were smoke free.

We also climbed Patuxai, a copy of the French Arc de Triomphe, although signs there note that Patuxai was built just slightly taller in order to out do the French. There was a nice view of the town from the top, but not all that much to see.

The Patuxai

The view from the top

Our favorite attraction, although it seems wrong to label it an “attraction,” was the COPE visitor center. COPE is an NGO that helps Laotians who have lost limbs obtain prosthetic limbs. During the Vietnam war, the US dropped millions of pounds of bombs on Laos in an effort to stop the resupply effort on the Ho Chi Min Trail. Many of those bombs failed to explode and are still lying around Laos. These “unexploded ordinances” are a huge danger for the population – kids playing in fields are unaware they are dangerous, and even adults risk investigating them because they contain metal that can be sold for significant amounts of money. The visitor center was a somber experience, with pictures and statistics of the numerous Laos children and adults who have lost arms and legs.

Cope’s entrance

An exhibit with recreated examples of “bomblets”

Tubing in Vang Vieng: The status in 2013/2014

Aaron — Fri, 21 Feb 2014 05:49:03 +0000

Vang Vieng is a legendary backpacker party location where the action revolves around days spent floating from bar to bar in inner tubes. There are countless stories of how outrageous the party used to be, but the fact that 25 tourists used to die each year from the partying pretty much sums it up. But all that was shut down by the Laos government in 2012. In the weeks leading up to our travel to Vang Vieng the biggest questions on our minds were: was there still a party? And what was it like? We shouldn’t have worried. While the partying is much less intense than the pre-2012 stories we heard about, Vang Vieng at the end of 2013/beginning of 2014 is still a fun party town, albeit much safer and less crazy. Tubing still exists, it’s a great time, and every day many backpackers grab their tubes, head to the river, and party from bar to bar.

The Town

The town of Vang Vieng is nothing special. A few streets, lined with guesthouses, shops selling the ubiquitous “IN THE TUBING VANG VIENG” shirts (grammatically correct or not, they are the must-have accessory in town), and lazy bars/restaurants filed with tables and cushions. And yes, the bars/restaurants really do play reruns of “Friends” non-stop. These “Friends bars” get annoying after a while, but are great for lazy mornings.

A main street in Vang Vieng, lined with “Friends bars”

The town has had a love/hate relationship with all the young backpackers who used to flood the town – it seemed to love the business that the travelers brought, but not the bathing suits and partying that came with them.

Signs around town urged travelers to respect the Laotian conservative culture.

Tubing

The main attraction in Vang Vieng continues to be the tubing. It’s very simple. There is a central tubing office near the center of town (this moved between two offices while we were there; we’re not sure why. But only one was open each day). In the office you sign your life away, get a number written on your hand, and jump into a tuk tuk loaded down with tubes.

A tuk tuk ready to depart.

After the tuk tuk takes everyone up the river, it’s a quick walk to the river where everyone excitedly jumps in to start the tubing. But it’s a little anticlimactic because within 30 seconds the first bar appears. Out of the water already? Okay, then.

Tubes & BeerLaos in hand – ready to go!

There are four bars remaining along the river. Backpackers float their way down the river, and then they reach a bar, the bar throws out a line. You pull yourself in, and the party begins. Some bars are crowded with tables, others have wide-open areas with volleyball courts, fire pits, and basketball courts. Each greets tubers with free shots and colored bracelets(weird, but whatever).

Dancing, chatting, and beer pong at one bar

A more chill bar; there was lots of just chatting and hanging.

It’s a great time; meeting other backpackers, partying, and dancing until the group decides to move on to the next bar. Then it’s back in the inner tubes, and onward to the next bar. Apologies for the lack of pictures in this post – we were having so much fun during the tubing that the camera didn’t come out often, and discretion prevents the posting of most of the pictures we did take.

In the tubes, headed to the next bar

Other Activities

One of the advantages to the partying aspect dying down is that the other attractions of Vang Vieng have become more popular. The town is in a beautiful location, along a river with mountains and green forests surrounding it. There are a number of activities available, we just had time for one – a trip to “Blue Lagoon”, a popular swimming hole and cave. It was beautiful, with powder blue water, trees to jump from, and a cafe with food and cold beer. We went with some friends in a tuk tuk, which was easy enough, but you can also bike over.

Jumping into the blue lagoon.

Although the lagoon was cool, the craziest part was the cave. The Tham Phu Kham Cave, located right next to the blue lagoon swimming hole, is a dark cave that is explored “independently” – i.e., no guides and no rules. The cave has a spectacular first room where a Buddhist shrine sits bathed in light from a natural skylight.

The shrine in the first room.

Light from the natural skylight

Beyond the first room are a number of dark passages. To my utter shock and surprise, they are all open without any rules or guidelines. They literally let you in, and that’s it. You have to bring you own light; there are no lights. There are no maps or signs telling you where to go (or where not to go). It was a thrilling (and slightly terrifying) experience trying to figure out, in the dark, where to go, where to climb, and where not to fall into. I went as far as I felt comfortable; our friends went a little further before also turning around.

Jami climbing into the cave

Heading deeper into the blackness

Welcome to the Jungle: Trekking in Northern Laos

Jami — Thu, 13 Feb 2014 05:58:52 +0000

While places like Luang Prabang have been on the “must visit” hot lists of many travelers, I was excited that Laos also offered opportunities to discover places and people way off the beaten path.

All on our own

When we signed up for a 3 day/2 night trek with homestays in villages, I had no idea how truly authentic the experience would be. Over these days we would hike through harvested rice fields, trail-less forests, up mountains, bamboo jungles, leech filled rivers and stay the night in bamboo houses with Lao families in their village surrounded by every kind of animal you can imagine. This was an experience I will never forget or be able to replicate.

DAY 1: Scenic Mountains and Rice Fields

We met our group at cafe in Luang Prabang: a young twenty something French-Canadian girl and a 60-ish Dutch women, plus our two guides who barely stood 5 feet tall. We headed up in a van and drove about 2 hours where it felt like we were abruptly dropped off on the side of the road. What? Where are we? Looking down the hill we saw our local transport: a boat the size of a canoe and a man willing to row us across. It started to rain and I remember thinking to myself: here we go!

Transport across the river

Heading across: the boat only fit half of us

Starting to drizzle

One of our guides looking out across the river

After getting across, there we were just us and a mountain of teak trees and bamboo.

Endless teak trees

Our group heading up

Up the mountain, bags of rice dotted along our journey

Enormous bamboo trees

A typical “bridge”

Occasionally, we would pass a local with a large bag of rice on their shoulders. We had views of rice fields that were never ending. We learned there were two types of rice: wet rice and mountain rice. Mountain rice being the hardest to grow, but the best. Unfortunately for us these rice fields had already been harvested so instead of the picturesque green fields, we saw dead yellow sticks in the ground, but they were everywhere. We learned a lot about the growing and production of rice. That rice had two seasons, was very fragile and had many stages until harvest. Many fields we walked passed were being lit of fire to feed the soil. The farmers would spend all day in the field and therefore build small huts along the sides so to shelter them from the hot sun or the pouring rain. Sometimes we would come across a hut with farmers resting.

Local hill tribe carrying rice

Rice bags almost the size of the transporter

Burning the fields

Mountain rice, already harvested

The scenic views

Among the rice fields

Guides picking us fruit to eat

Lunch: fried rice wrapped in bamboo leaves

Authentic presentation

It was amazing to walk by these fields and peer into this way of life. We must have been a funny sight. With our backpacks and gear, the locals, some never seeing people like us before. When we stopped at our first village, the people came by and just sat next to us and stared. They were very shy, but you could tell they were curious. One of our guides was from a nearby village and so could communicate to them. I tried connecting in the universal language of candy. I called over a couple kids, who were staring at us from a distance and I offered up my chocolate I brought for the trek. They approached me so politely and smiled before reaching out to take it. I remember them eating it so delicately and sharing with their family. I thought, if these were American kids, there would have been a grab and a fight on who gets what.

Our first hill tribe village

Looking at us curiously

The village kitchen

Everyone likes chocolate

We kept heading up the steep mountains until we reached the village would stay in for the night. It was very small. No electricity. The village water was geniusly set up to come from a nearby waterfall/water source which would pour down through bamboo pipes and into a collective barrel.

Keeping going

Friends along the way

Through the rivers

Through the forests

The small village

The water system

There were animals everywhere. Cows, chickens and roosters and their chicks, huge hogs and their piglets, dogs and puppies, cats and kittens, and some really ugly and terrifying turkeys.

Animals everywhere!

The women were always working: tending to the animals, cooking, grinding rice, even building.

We walked around the tiny village among the animals and connected with our neighbors for the night, mostly with a smile and a hand wave. That night we stayed with a family in their bamboo house, on a bamboo bed, on top of bags of rice and straw. I was a little nervous when it started pouring heavily in the early morning but the house never incurred a leak. In the morning, we bid farewell to the villagers and our animal friends.

Our home for the night

Our friendly neighbors

Kids in the village

Dinner being cooked inside our hut

Sitting by the fire with friends

In the morning, finally the rain cleared

Breakfast

I’ll miss this guy

DAY 2: Rivers, Jungle and Leeches

Our second day trekking would really test me. It had rained hard in the early morning and so we were walking in muddy conditions. On top of that would had to contend with river beds – crossing 7 – that were doused with leeches! Each time we crossed, we would have to take off our shoes and step carefully across the rocks trying to watch your feet. But no matter how careful you were, you would be picking off dozens of small leeches off your toes, ankles, shoes and socks. It was awful. I was nicked a couple times but the worst was when I didn’t notice one that had reached all the way up behind my knee, inside my pants. It must have been there for half an hour, but Aaron looked at the back of my pants and asked me, “is that blood?” The back of my pants were soaked in blood. I quickly rolled up my pants and found a giant hole in the back of my leg. The leech had likely dropped off, too full of my blood. I had mild breakdown, washed my leg and pants and on we went, me struggling to remember why I signed up for this as I remembered Chitwan in Nepal and how much I didn’t like jungle trekking: the heat, the sticky sweat, but upon arrival to our homestay in a large village, again filled with animals everywhere. I forgot all about the leeches and the dirt and sticky sweat. I simply fell in love with the kids here.

Leeches everywhere = bloody feet and legs

Jami: “I hate the jungle!”

Finally out of the jungle, phew!

Gorgeous landscape

We made it

Lunch on leaves

Hillside Tribe Village for night 2, much bigger

Still animals everywhere

Simple living

Women cleaning rice

Village message board?

Kids playing with tires

At first they ran from Aaron – was it the beard?

At first they were shy but soon I was singing and dancing with them. I brought out my notepad where I would draw a picture and they would say the name in their language and I would say it in mine. The big sister in me also shared some lip gloss, braided hair and I left them some of my rubber bands to the girls. I showed them pictures in my camera and took some pictures with them. I had the best time. The kids were so sweet and full of energy and they were the highlight of the entire trek.

Dancing with them far away, to get them comfortable

Fast friends

Drawing and learning from each other

Big sister talent

They loved the camera

Once again we slept in the house of village tribe member who would light a fire in her house as our guides cooked us dinner.

Dinner prep

Our home for the night

Sharing a bamboo bed

DAY 3: Back to Civilization

In the morning, after the rain let up we headed out of the village, across their school and down a wide dirt road path where a cement road was to be put in. When reached our final village where we would be picked up, we noticed how different it was from the others we had visited and slept in. This village was modernizing, as it had roads, motorbikes and few cars, electricity, plumbing. The locals here were playing music from the radio, kids were playing games on cellphones, and you had to look both ways when crossing the road so not to get hit by a construction vehicle. I remember thinking how lucky we were to have experienced these other villages, which felt like stepping back into time, where family, farming rice, and feeding animals were all they knew and how it is likely to all change. It was a very special experience.

Walking passed the school in the morning

Morning views very cloudy

Walking by a cow and her nearly born calf – just a day old, his hair still sticky

The road being built up

Our guides

And with Aaron, back in Luang Prabang – Thanks guys!

Lovely and Laid back Luang Prabang, Laos

Jami — Tue, 11 Feb 2014 06:14:41 +0000

Lew-ang Pro-baang or Loo-Ang Pra-Bang, we really didn’t know how to pronounce it upon arrival. But I fell in love with this little town’s charm and character almost straight away.

Young monk walking across the charming streets

Restaurants and Cafes line the Mekong River, for laid back atmostphere

Lunching above the Mekong

Bamboo bridge

A walk down to the Mekong

Smiling Monks

Local prepping fresh fish and sticky rice

The whole city itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site which contains just a few main streets between the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers. The town was described by the global body as “an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions.” And this description is spot on.

A typical building in LP: French+Asia charm

Taking long walks

Buddah statues

Green landscape around temples

Riverside views

Monks banging their drum during prayer, very cool

The environment and French history makes for a laid back vibe that feels a bit like a step back in time. The city is absolutely walkable, but I suggest renting a push bike and bike past the colonial houses and hotels along the Mekong and stop in a bakery and pick up a french pasterie like a chocolate crossaint or bagatte, while sipping on some sweet/rich Lao coffee.

Our his and her bikes

French pastries: fresh bread and desserts

Sweet Lao coffee

I loved the Asian-Euro fusion: the palm trees, monks walking about in saffron robes, the temples, but then terra-cotta roofs, blue shutters, french colonial style balconies… it gave off a feeling of being both exotic yet homey and comfortable, a really cool mix!

Fancy hotels; French colonial era style

Gorgeous temples. Often decorated in stained glass

Bang for good luck

Jaw-dropping stained glass designs

Buddahs

The food also seemed a bit blended. While sometimes I found Lao food a bit bland, I loved the simply called, “Lao Salad,” which was mix of fresh greens, watercress, tomatoes, cucumbers, chopped peanuts and sliced hard-boiled egg, all tossed in a tangy, sometimes thick dressing.

My favorite salad ever

While we are on the topic of mixing. Another interesting culmination about Luang Prabang was the mix of both backpacker and upscale travelers converging. The street that ran along the Mekong was lined with fancy hotels and spas, just down the road held the backpacker hostels. And while we were different in age and budgets, everyone enjoyed a stop on the sidewalk to watch the local life go by, while eating a Lao soup or French dessert.

My favorite activity while there was walking the night market. However, having a restricted budget as well as luggage space, made it tough for me. I drooled at the Hmong textiles of bright patterned pillow cases, blankets, purses, backpacks and wallets. The fabric was bright and used geo patterns and hand cross stitching. These were not your typical market finds. These are gems if your suitcase can hold. I managed to buy a skirt and a couple small cases but would jump on a plane in a heart beat just to pick some of those blankets and pillow cases. If I’ve convinced you to go, please let me know so I can hand you a shopping list.

Night Market, oozing color *not my photo

Market textiles the best in all of SEAsia *Not my photos

Lao was a bit hurting in the late night department. The whole country actually has a curfew of 11pm. This goes for most bars and restaurants. So while we loved Utopia, this open air backpacker zen den, which was nestled it by the river in what was decorated as a magical garden, the magic was over an hour before the stroke of midnight. Next stop: the after hours bowling alley. So the buzzed backpackers would jump into tuk tuks, packed so that they were hanging off the back, therefore cutting the fare 15 or so ways. The ride was most the fun and arrived at the bowling alley to purchase a bottle of liquor, listen to pop music and bowl.

Mellow but fun bar Utopia

The infamous bowling alley, where the night can continue after 11pm curfew

On our last day we took a tuk tuk out into the country where we reached the nearby Kuang Si Falls. There were a number of these bright blue pools here and people would jump from the top or from ropes to fall into the neon irredescent waters. Be careful of the nibbling fish – it tickles. It was beautiful but also recreational.

Our tuk tuk

The ride out to the countryside

Neon green pools

People swinging in

Fish nipping at my feet – ahhhh!

The big waterfall

I loved Luang Prabang, one of my favorite cities in all of SEAsia. It is a provincial unique city with tons of character for all to enjoy and relax from the flashbacker to the jaded luxury traveler.

Just relax

Slow Boat to Laos – emphases on the SLOW

Aaron — Tue, 04 Feb 2014 02:50:22 +0000

We crossed over from Thailand to Laos at Huay Xai, a common border crossing for backpackers on the SE Asia circuit. It’s popular because Huay Xai is the starting point for a two-day slow boat journey down to Luang Prabang. Numerous people had told us that the slow boat was a “must do,” but we found it boring and unnecessary. The interior of the boats is cramped, preventing true relaxation, and the scenery, while beautiful, is nothing compared to the scenery one finds on a trek into Northern Thailand or Laos (which most backpackers also do). Additionally, there is very little “local” traffic on that section of the Mekong, leaving little to look out except the same rolling hills or other boats of tourists. Therefore, it would be our advice that the two days are better spent at the nearby Gibbon Experience, or as extra time in Luang Prabang, an amazing town.

Crossing the Border

The border crossing was jumbled, but without any problems. A van took us to the small boat that ferried us across the river into Laos. Before we left we stopped by Thai customs, a small shack where an official stamped our passports without any question or concern.

Leaving Thailand

Once in Laos, we were guided to a window where we paid for the visa and got our passports stamped without anyone even looking at us. Onto the boat!

Arrival to the Laotian side of the Mekong

Our first BearLaos while waiting to board the slow boat!

The Slow Boat

The slow boats are long wooden boats, common in the northern part of Laos. Some carry cargo up and down the river; others people. While initially travelers would just hitch a ride on a local boat, due to the backpacker demand there are now tourist-only slow boats with nice-ish seats (ours were literally minivan double seats taken out of cars and placed into the boats without any attachment to the floor).

A typical slow boat

The inside of the boat as we cruised down the river

I must first add that we didn’t experience either of the two annoyances we were worried about. From reading over other travelers’ experiences, we were a little concerned that (a) we would be screwed if we didn’t get there early, and (b) we might end up sitting for two days on wooden plank in the engine room. But we booked the boat through a company in Chiang Rai, and there were seats waiting for us on the boat, even through we didn’t get to the boat until 11:30 or noon.

Long boats docked on the Mekong

The pace of the boat is certainly slow, which we found at times to be a nice break from our rushing through much of Thailand, although not as nice as the slow pace of Pai. The upper Mekong is not heavily populated, and our boat would often go hours without passing a village. The river itself is wide and muddy; not the prettiest. Rolling hills surround the river providing for a serene setting, but the setting doesn’t change during the two days down the river.

The Upper Mekong

Looking out the window to beautiful Laos scenery. Lots of this on the boat. Lots.

Our boat was completely packed which made it hard to use the free time to relax – seats were close together and there was no room for sprawling out. Our attempts to drink a little on board were thwarted at first by the ridiculous prices of beer on board, and then by the boat running out of beer. If we were part of a larger group that brought its own alcohol on board, the slow boat could have been a fun party.

A cargo boat on the Mekong

Mist over docked slow boats

The coolest part of the journey for me was knowing that not only were we traveling down the river the way the Laos people had for centuries (well, with an engine), but also that the Mekong would be with us for the next two months of our travels, all the way through to Southern Vietnam. The water we were looking at would soon be at the floating markets of the Mekong Delta, as would we.

A local small boat on the Mekong

The slow boat journey takes two days, with an overnight in Pakbeng. It’s a very small town, with little more than small guesthouses for tourists passing through. But it was fun to have a night and dinner in a very local town far from any other outside influences. We chatted with some nice other backpackers we met, and laughed about the ridiculously thin walls between the rooms. They made the supposedly-thin walls of other hotels look like bomb-proof shelters; these things let whispers through and probably would have been more effective as sheets.

Arrival in Pakbeng

Sunset over a slow boat as the first day comes to an end.

Arrival in Luang Prabang

Late in the afternoon of the second day we arrived at Luang Prabang. There was a collective groan of disbelief as we realized that the boat was not going to stop at the town’s port – which was in fine condition – but instead at a port 10 miles upriver, simply to force us to pay tuk tuk drivers to take us into town. Ugh.

Disembarking at “Luang Prabang”

Things Might be a ‘Changin

While we would not do the slow boat journey again, and this post might come off a little negative (it’s just the truth!), from talking to locals and other backpackers it sounds like we should appreciate what we got to see, as the scenery may be drastically changing. Throughout Northern Laos we heard about the new high-speed rail line that China is building from China to Vientiane. The line will cross the Mekong over the slow boat route, and stop in Luang Prabang on its way to the capital.

Construction at the site of what will be the bridge over the Mekong for the new Chinese rail line.

The route, incidentally, is an engineering marvel. But while the main goal of the line is to link Thailand and China (there is already a rail link between Vientiane and Bangkok), everyone seemed convinced that by making it quick and easy to access Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and the Upper Mekong, the rail line will forever change the face of the serene river and scenery we traveled through.

The serenity of the upper Mekong

Chiang Rai and the White Temple

Aaron — Sun, 02 Feb 2014 16:23:49 +0000

As we made our way from Chiang Mai to the Laos border, we stopped for a night in Chiang Rai. Not only was it a convenient way to break up the bus ride to the border, we had heard backpacker legends about a crazy “white temple” that was worth stopping for. The rumors were correct.

The White Temple of Chiang Rai

The White Temple (officially, “Wat Rong Khun”) is a Buddhist temple that is the personal project of Chalermchai Kositpipat, a Thai artist. According to pamphlets at the temple, he created the temple as a way to honor Buddha as well as convince other people to become more religious. Because initially he wasn’t able to obtain any funding for the temple, he started the work with his own money and donations.

Jami in front of the temple

While on a completely different scale, I think the best comparison is to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Both passion projects of artists, even if Gaudi was hired; both fulfilling a deeply personal religious calling; and both radically different from conventional temples/churches. But with the Sagrada Familia architecture is the primary draw; with the White Temple it’s the carvings, statues, and facades that adorn the buildings. They are crazy. Out of control nuts.

Carvings of some devil-like creatures

While the designs were crazy, they were beautiful with a great attention to detail.

Gargoyles (I think)

Another monster

The temple buildings themselves are very basic, white buildings. In fact, because the temple complex is still under construction, several of the unadorned buildings are visible, and they are nothing special. The “specialness” comes from Kositpipat’s sculpture and artwork that covers every square inch of the completed buildings. They are crazy, and like nothing we had ever seen before, while at the same time containing many Buddhist images and references.

An unfinished building, with the main, finished, temple in the background.

A finished building, guarded by a crazy-looking man

The entrance to the temple contains pits with hands grasping into the sky, supposedly of condemned souls who were sent to hell.

Hands reaching up.

I couldn’t let them just hang there, could I?

One of the most amusing elements for us was how Kositpipat includes pop culture in his work. And by pop culture, I mean American pop culture. For example, in one of the main murals, representing the fight against evil, there are numerous icons from American movies, including X-wing fighters, Michael Jackson, and (no joke) Kung-Fu Panda. Statues around the grounds include many references to other American movies franchises.

Michael Jackson in the lower right corner; Kung Fu Panda on the left.

An alien from the movie Predator, just hanging out on the grounds… for some reason.

In addition to movie characters more expected to be in Disneyland or Universal Studios than a Buddhist temple, there are a number of scary-looking severed heads hanging from trees. Some are of famous characters (such as Freddy Kruger), others just crazy, scary heads.

Bleeeech!

A more devlish creature

As part of the mission to convince people to become more religious, the temple has warnings against bad behavior – such as pictures of a devil, and warnings of the dangers of alcohol and smoking. Amusingly, the devil’s two eyes contain drawings of George W. Bush and Osama bin Laden. According to the materials this is because Kositpipat wanted to show two sides to evil, but to us it just seemed like an easy way to date the mural.

Whiskey = the devil.

But while the artist supposedly started the temple complex as a way to honor his religion and its gods, and to get others to become more religious, to me the temple focused less on religion and more on the artist himself. Life-size posters of Kositpipat are displayed all around the grounds; galleries display his other works; and sculptures of crazy faces and whacked out monsters don’t seem to cause spiritual reflection, but instead to lead people to think about how cool the sculptures are, and who created them.

With the artist – he was in this pose in every poster.

Regardless, it didn’t matter to us because we weren’t there for the spirituality, we were there for the cool sculptures! So for us the White Temple was a very cool detour on the way to Laos. Chiang Rai didn’t have all that much else to see, but there were a few other cool temples and a fun market with an instant-favorite street food: deep-fried noodles around a pork ball. Yum!

Jami on the streets of Chiang Rai

Cooking up noodles and pork balls

Yum.