4k islands: Been there, Don Det

Posted in: Laos | By: Jami | April 20, 2014

Merry Christmas! Well, I know it’s time for Passover/Easter, but I guess we’re (alright Aaron, I’M) a bit behind. Since coming back here there has been a lot of to-dos and no time for settling, which is okay with us, as I don’t think we’re comfortable doing so.

SO…

What are the Four Thousand Islands?

They are not your typical vision of an island. No real sandy beaches and turquoise water. The Four Thousand islands, known as Si Phan Don, are often tiny and sometimes large sand banks inside the Mekong River, established as “islands.” The more popular bigger islands to stay, are Don Khong, Don Det and Don Kon. Just 5 or so years ago these islands were roads less traveled, not having electricity or any sort of plumbing. But times have changed and the popular islands are now a well sought after route for backpackers. However, while electricity and for the most part spotty wi-fi can be found, the islands still feel like you are worlds away from the modern world. There still are no ATMs on the islands, so be sure you bring enough KIP with you.

A typical bungalow restaurant hanging off into the Mekong

Typical boats to island hop and fish

A local man, makes his fishing net. Here locals are quite self-sufficient and not reliant on tourism.

Frogs, local cuisine, frying in the sun

Unbeatable sunsets

Hot showers, a luxury and hard to come by on this island.

In traditional SE Asia fashion, we took many modes of transport to get to the 4K Islands. First, a mini van that got us to a river, in which we took a small boat, to land where we waited around for about an hour in the early morning on the side of the road waiting for another bus to pick us up. This bus again, the size of a mini bus got us close, but not before we had a couple of stops. At our stop for Don Det, Nakasang Town, we got off, walked about half a mile and then to another boat that would take us by small boat to Don Det. While the trip out didn’t seem that efficient the cost of all modes of transport cost Aaron and I about $12 each – and that’s why we LOVE Laos!

The boat made its stop on the sandy part of the island, on the “sunrise” side and our backpacks were thrown out of the boat and onto the sand. We had no reservations, be it that here there are no hostels, just tiny one room bungalows. We were a little nervous about not having ressys, being that it was Christmas, but we walked to the other side of the island, the “sunset” side, and found exactly what we were looking for, perfectly named Paradise. It was modest wooden bungalow, overlooking the river, with two hammocks ready for us to relax. Our place also had a pretty buzzing main restaurant area where people would gather with a book, a guitar, a joint, a beer, some coffee and hang out for an hour or two or all day. Don Det is often described as a backpacker mecca and just by looking around the small boat of mostly young 20-somethings with dreads and tattoos, and a pile of backpacks on the front, we realized the description is right.

Our place, young and fun, filled with people coming to relax.

Our bungalow, the first one.

You see the 4k islands are a bit like Pai in Thailand, the objective here is to hang out. Life moves especially slow here on this island of no cars, tuk tuks, horses, and just a handful of motorbikes. The “roads” are simply dirt path ways you walk. The island shuts down at dark and dinner takes an hour or two to be served. And you know, that’s the way they (and all the resident backpackers) like it.

One of the more modern paths we crossed, me in the far distance on my bike

It’s perfectly normal to spend all your time here in a hammock or on a deck drinking in the views atop the Mekong accompanied with a Beer Lao. You also sip on coconuts and eat banana pancakes with Lao coffee. Some people fall so much down this spiraling hole of “chill” that they forget how long they’ve been here, or what day of the week it is. A planned couple of days in Don Det can easily result in a month of “where did the time go.” Heck some people even decide not to leave at all, hence a huge expat community.

4K island living

So taking it easy is what we did. We simply hung out at our bungalow our first day, enjoying the Christmas sunset and drinking some beer Lao. We thought people would be celebrating Christmas in “town,” a short street with a handful of bars and places to eat, but the street was quiet. Even the famous reggae bar was empty and dark. So we decided to head back. Turns out Europeans celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve, so any celebration we missed the night before.

Aaron drinking Beer Lao

Relaxing with my Kindle, admiring the sunset

The next day, being a little restless from no nightlife and a little anxious to get out of our hammocks and start exploring Don Det and its nearby sister island, we rented some janky bikes, the best of the lot for about $1 for the day and biked around. We biked to the nearby sister island, even quieter than Don Det, Don Khon. As we biked we witnessed local kids entertaining themselves with various household items, mostly trash. Along the river bank on the bridge, kids used cardboard and water bottles as seats to ride down the side of the concrete bridge, an old railway bridge. We passed cows and roped up pigs and also locals on their bikes coming home from school. Once on the other side of the bridge, we followed signed to “the beach” and stopped at various waterfalls. We arrived at the beach a little late so most sun bathers were heading home, but it was nice to have the beach to ourselves.

Biking through the main street on the sunset side

Typical dirt path, along the Mekong, mostly perfect for biking…watch out for those rocks and dips

Kids coming home from school, often doubling or tripling up on a bike

Kids at play: sliding down the bridge

They used cardboard and soda/water bottles

Heading to the beach

Stopping at waterfalls

Fishing nets attached to rocks

At our arrival, not your typical beach

Before sunset hit, we headed back home, stopping to witness locals play soccer in a crop field and crossing the bridge just as the sunset hit. The sky and the water were magenta mixed with orange and lilac. The sunsets here are really unreal as the water takes on the color of the sky. A sort of glow is everywhere. On the bridge we ran into our friend that we did the Laos Trek with, you know the one with the leeches.

Kids playing soccer

A unplanned meeting on the bridge at sunset

Breathtaking

The following day we moved on to one of my favorite unique places of stay throughout the trip, which is saying a lot considering some of the amazing places we stayed in throughout Europe, Nepal, India and Thailand…a tepee! We made our way to The Last Resort, owned by an expat, Brit who was once a successful finance professional, who dropped it all, sold his stuff and claimed a small piece of land on a tiny island on the bottom of Laos. His vision was to create a fun, communal feel, of a place, it was magic. And communal it was, you would wake up with the other tipee mates as you drank coffee and at night we would order family style, in our case Indian food, and watched movies that shown via projector, an open air cinema if you will. We watched classics like Home Alone as we laid in hammocks and on cushions. Speaking of expats, the island was filled with them. It seemed like every restaurant and bar, be it reggae or Mexican was owned by a Kiwi, a Brit, or Aussie. They all knew each other and likely had the same idea to escape whatever their regular life was at “home” and create a new one on this chill island. It was also so that they usually escaped their home in Laos during the summer months, rainy season, so I’m sure the island is abandoned of most food and entertainment. The Last Resort cost us 50,000 KIP a night, about $6!

Our very own tepee!

We spent the next day on a deck overlooking the Mekong, drinking smoothies and coconuts, eating and blogging. In the evening we went on a “fishing” tour which costs us about $2 each. Turns out it was a man with a boat and one fishing rod for the six of us. It was a total joke, but who cares, the “guide” was very nice, it was cheap. However, no fish were caught.

Once again chilling along the river

Gone fishing…sort of.

Aaron working the line

Aaron, after his turn at fishing

Taking my turn

Cambodia, just to our right

On our final full day in 4K islands, we signed up for an ALL DAY Kayak trip. We got up extremely early and headed into town. We kayaked and hiked all day, it was a bit strenuous but fun to feel so connected to the Mekong. We paddled out amongst the Irrawaddy Dolphins that were native to that part of the river. We only saw a few pop up in the hour or so we stayed out there but it was cool knowing we were at the place to find these animals almost exclusively. We then relaxed and took lunch at a local spot that catered to this company. On our picnic benches we were surrounded by the local pets: dogs, chickens, cats and pigs, who seemed to know that tourists were likely to give them any leftovers. After lunch we were bused to the huge waterfalls, Khone Pha Pheng, the largest in southeast Asia and they are the main reason that the Mekong is not fully navigable into China. We took our pictures, climbed out on some rocks to get a better view and were back in the van to head to our kayaks. As we arrived local, and some naked, kids were playing on the kayaks. As sunset hit, we paddled back to Don Det, tired from the long day. As we got back we had some dinner and headed to bed early.

Kayaking with our group

Happy to have such a strong partner

Among the dolphins

At the falls

Pretty massive

Kids at our kayaks

Heading home at sunset, pretty tired.

The next day, early in the morning, before most the island was up, we headed back to where it all started the sandy beach on the “sunset side,” where we would again take a boat, to a bus to a bus, with a boarding crossing in Cambodia! I can’t say enough about how much I loved Laos. The people, the seclusion and relaxation, the cost of things! While tourism is ramping up, the place still seems unchartered and feels incredibly authentic. I would and will go back in heartbeat.

At sunrise, leaving the island, on our way to Cambodia!