Lovely and Laid back Luang Prabang, Laos
Lew-ang Pro-baang or Loo-Ang Pra-Bang, we really didn’t know how to pronounce it upon arrival. But I fell in love with this little town’s charm and character almost straight away.
The whole city itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site which contains just a few main streets between the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers. The town was described by the global body as “an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions.” And this description is spot on.
The environment and French history makes for a laid back vibe that feels a bit like a step back in time. The city is absolutely walkable, but I suggest renting a push bike and bike past the colonial houses and hotels along the Mekong and stop in a bakery and pick up a french pasterie like a chocolate crossaint or bagatte, while sipping on some sweet/rich Lao coffee.
I loved the Asian-Euro fusion: the palm trees, monks walking about in saffron robes, the temples, but then terra-cotta roofs, blue shutters, french colonial style balconies… it gave off a feeling of being both exotic yet homey and comfortable, a really cool mix!
The food also seemed a bit blended. While sometimes I found Lao food a bit bland, I loved the simply called, “Lao Salad,” which was mix of fresh greens, watercress, tomatoes, cucumbers, chopped peanuts and sliced hard-boiled egg, all tossed in a tangy, sometimes thick dressing.
While we are on the topic of mixing. Another interesting culmination about Luang Prabang was the mix of both backpacker and upscale travelers converging. The street that ran along the Mekong was lined with fancy hotels and spas, just down the road held the backpacker hostels. And while we were different in age and budgets, everyone enjoyed a stop on the sidewalk to watch the local life go by, while eating a Lao soup or French dessert.
My favorite activity while there was walking the night market. However, having a restricted budget as well as luggage space, made it tough for me. I drooled at the Hmong textiles of bright patterned pillow cases, blankets, purses, backpacks and wallets. The fabric was bright and used geo patterns and hand cross stitching. These were not your typical market finds. These are gems if your suitcase can hold. I managed to buy a skirt and a couple small cases but would jump on a plane in a heart beat just to pick some of those blankets and pillow cases. If I’ve convinced you to go, please let me know so I can hand you a shopping list.
Lao was a bit hurting in the late night department. The whole country actually has a curfew of 11pm. This goes for most bars and restaurants. So while we loved Utopia, this open air backpacker zen den, which was nestled it by the river in what was decorated as a magical garden, the magic was over an hour before the stroke of midnight. Next stop: the after hours bowling alley. So the buzzed backpackers would jump into tuk tuks, packed so that they were hanging off the back, therefore cutting the fare 15 or so ways. The ride was most the fun and arrived at the bowling alley to purchase a bottle of liquor, listen to pop music and bowl.
On our last day we took a tuk tuk out into the country where we reached the nearby Kuang Si Falls. There were a number of these bright blue pools here and people would jump from the top or from ropes to fall into the neon irredescent waters. Be careful of the nibbling fish – it tickles. It was beautiful but also recreational.
I loved Luang Prabang, one of my favorite cities in all of SEAsia. It is a provincial unique city with tons of character for all to enjoy and relax from the flashbacker to the jaded luxury traveler.
This is the one city I desperately wanted to get to in SE Asia, but couldn’t make it work. So, so, so jealous. NOW COME HOME (to NYC, that is).
You must go! And we head back today – but to the West Coast. I think we left NYC just in time.
Sounds like an amazing city! It’s on the bucket list and when we go, will take your shopping list.
I love it – I’ll send you with a list and an extra suitcase!